Sam Gillespie runs a fab company Incywincytogs – she’s passionate about sewing techniques – here she explains how to make an appliqued t-shirt.
Appliqué comes from the french appliquer, meaning to “put on”. It’s a method of applying a piece of fabric (usually a shape) on top of another, then sewn in place by hand or machine sewing.
I have been making and selling these personalised tees & bodysuits since the start of 2007, but have been using and teaching the technique of appliqué for many years. It’s an easy process to achieve and the finished item can, with care, look very professional.
This is the method that I use on my machine, but I have also added details of how you could achieve this by hand appliqué below.
I use a medium weight calico template to cut out the letters and numbers from the desired fabric. This is then traced onto one of my favourite notions ‘Steam-A-Seam’. (A lightweight fusible web) fig.1.
fig.1.
I used to pin and tack all the letters, but found this very time consuming. The fusible web is so easy to use and works wonders with my lightweight fabrics. However, if I’m ever doing a larger piece of appliqué I prefer not to use the fusible interfacing as I like the edges to be neatly tucked in. (Showing no raw edges).
Next the fusible web is cut out and place onto the wrong side of the fabric letter. Then I peel the fusible web backing off and place the letters onto the background and iron on a high setting.
This method of preparing the appliquéd design is permanent once it has been fused to the background. So I have to ensure everything is in position before being ironed
Finally I machine stitch around the letters to hide the raw edges. On the T-Shirt below I have appliquéd the letters onto a felt and denim background before adding the design to the Tee.
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If you are going to produce something like this for a child/toddler then hand appliquéd felt works perfectly. Just remember to buy a high quality felt, as your item will need to be washed.
How to make a personalised felt appliquéd Tee ~
- If the Tee is new wash to avoid shrinkage after the design is applied.
- Print off the letters you require to use as templates (or freehand sketch them)
- Pin the templates to the felt and cut out the letters using sharp scissors
- Tack the letters to the background fabric using large stitches which can be easily taken out afterwards
- Hand-stitch the letters on to the backing fabric fig.2. Using a buttonhole stitch or similar. Fig.3.
Experiment with several different stitch techniques to find the one that you feel most comfortable with. Ensure the stitch is going over the outside edge of the fabric and through the background fabric.
fig.2.
fig.3. Buttonhole stitch
- Then finally fuse and stitch the finished name/word onto your chosen Tee in the same way. (Using a tacking stitch to position and hold in place, then hand stitch to Tee)
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Appliqué Books for Kids…
If you want to show your kids some brilliant examples of appliqué then check out these books by illustrator/author Clare Beaton.

Photo from book ‘Secret Seahorse’ Stella Blackstone & Calre Beaton/Barefoot Books
Clare appliqués the pictures using felt, vintage fabrics, buttons, sequins etc. Well worth a look!
Appliqué Books for Adults…
Links to some great project books.
Embellished Appliqué by Patricia Converse/Creative Publishing International 2007
Applique by Polly Pollock/Southwater 2003
I hope this has been useful and remember to experiment and just have fun!
Sam Gillespie/incywinctogs

Celebrities have been one of the first groups to embrace the new trend :Gwyneth Paltrow (“Yoga mama”), Kate Hudson (“Loving my buddha belly”) and Salma Hayek (“Sexy. Stylish. Pregnant”)

Rebellion chic, circa 1977.



